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The untamed island of Borneo (of which Kalimantan makes up around two thirds) has enchanted adventurers since the days of the great Victorian explorers – and today little has diluted that raw experience. Home to one of the globe’s great rainforests, bone-through-the-nose tribes and the largest population of orang-utans in the world, this is just the spot to find the last corners of wilderness, untouched by human hand. River boating into the “heart of darkness” through the Tanjung National Park is the way to do it.
Putter along in a klotok river boat while bobble-nosed proboscis monkeys whoop at your arrival and kind-eyed orang-utans loop through the trees.
Lying directly on the equator with many canals crisscross the city and one of Indonesia’s longest rivers, the Kapuas (1,143 km long) divides the town in two, providing an essential and historical communications link. Stone carvings and ceramics can be traced as far back as the 5th century, but it is the influence of Islam that has had the most impact on this region. West Kalimantan covers an area of over 146,607 sq km, rich in a variety of minerals and precious stones, and remains largely unexplored. Coastal areas are mainly swamp lands with more than 100 rivers sculpting the flat plains. In the mountainous eastern parts of the province, away from the city and plains, there are many Dayak villages. A large Chinese population, Malays and other Indonesian ethnic groups account for the rest of the inhabitants of the province. West Kalimantan has a tropical climate with the average daily minimum temperature of 220,9 C and maximum 310,05 C. A light rainy season from March - May and the heavy rain from November - January.
Where to stay?
Oberoi Hotel Lombok. Lovely as they are, the Gilis offer little in the way of luxury comforts so it’s best to admire their simple beauty from the day beds of the Oberoi’s private beach on Lombok’s mainland. The hotel also arranges picnics and day-trips to the islands – just 20 minutes away by boat. Doubles from £227.
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Hotel Tugu Lombok. Also on the Gili-facing side of Lombok. Take your pick from bamboo and thatched-roof rooms, styled on those found in traditional Lombok villages, either facing out to the cerulean sea and islands or inland to the ember-crowned Rinjani volcano. Three-night packages from £264 a night.
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